If you're new to chainmaille you're probably looking at all the names and numbers and feeling a bit overwhelmed. The good news is that just with any hobby, it all becomes clearer the more you do it, but if you can get a little help along the way, it makes the journey that bit easier. So, I have compiled some information to answer the questions I am most often asked about - a frequently asked questions if you will.
First things first - let's break it down line by line.
The information on the website is the same as on the label so it makes it super easy for you to re-order what you need and you have all the information at your fingertips. But you need to know what it means.
First line = what's in the bag. Whether it's anodised aluminium, stainless steel, EPDM rubber etc, here's where it tells you what's in the bag.
Second line = what wire gauge the rings are. Wire gauge refers to the thickness of the wire used to make the rings. There are two types of gauges (because life isn't confusing enough) and these are standard wire gauge (SWG) and American wire gauge (AWG). Now for the fun bit. SWG is generally used in America and Canada so you'll see it pop up on tutorials more often than not. AWG is not used in America, but instead is more common in the UK, other European countries, New Zealand and Australia - other countries
are available I'm just speaking from personal experience, feel free to share in the comments what is common usage where you are from. Although they are not strictly the same measurements, the conversions are close enough for most chainmaille weaves without causing too many issues. You'll notice two things from the chart, one is that if you are converting SWG then the AWG equivalent is the gauge below. hence the 18SWG=16AWG. The second thing you'll notice is that from 20 and below, they are all measured in AWG for chainmaille.
The third line = the internal measurements of the rings, the inner diameter (I.D.). On our labels and website we include the imperial and metric equivalents as it will depend where in the world you are from (as well as which generation for us Brits) whether you are used to working in millimetres or inches, and this applies to tutorials too. As with the wire thickness there are always going to be variations so if you need precise measurements, I recommend you check them with a pair of calipers. When buying rings for chainmaille it is important to note most standard jewellery suppliers list their rings in outer diameter. However, in chainmaille you need that inner diameter as not only do you want to make sure you've got the right rings for your project but also it's important for the maths, and here I'll tell you why.....
The bottom line (both literally and figuratively) = this is the aspect ratio (A.R). This is the king of all the numbers in chainmaille and makes many of the popular weaves possible. This is where chainmaille gets mathematical but it's quite a simple calculation once you know the magic formulation. The first number you need is that inner diameter, then divide it by the wire thickness. That's it! That will give you the aspect ratio. But why is this so important? Well, it can allow you to make a chain thicker or thinner, for example byzantine will look great with an A.R. of about 3.4. This can be 18SWG 5/32", 19SWG 9/64" or 20awg 7/64". The other reason is that there are some weaves that have a very precise A.R. requirement (I'm looking at you Jens Pind Linkage) and these will only work with that A.R. rather than becoming a tangled mess of rings launched into the ether.
If you've got this far, well done!! I know it's a lot to take in at the start but I promise you it does get easier the more you do it and you can always refer back to this post whenever you want to. If you have a burning question I've not answered, you can email me at wraithmaille@gmail.com .
Glossary of terms
AWG = American wire gauge
SWG = Standard wire gauge
A.R. = Aspect Ratio
I.D. = Inner Diameter